How does the angle of wave approach influence coastal shaping?

The angle of wave approach influences coastal shaping by determining the intensity and direction of coastal erosion and deposition.

The angle at which waves approach the coast plays a significant role in shaping the coastline. This is primarily due to the process of wave refraction, which is the bending of waves as they approach the shore. When waves approach the coast at an angle, the part of the wave that reaches shallow water first slows down, causing the wave to bend and align almost parallel to the shore. This process redistributes the energy of the wave along the coastline, influencing the patterns of erosion and deposition.

Erosion is the process by which rocks and sediments are worn away and transported by natural forces such as waves. When waves hit the coast at an angle, they generate a current that flows parallel to the shore, known as a longshore current. This current carries sediment along the coast in a process called longshore drift. The direction and intensity of longshore drift are determined by the angle of wave approach, with steeper angles resulting in more intense drift.

Deposition, on the other hand, is the process by which sediments are laid down in new locations. When the energy of the longshore current decreases, it can no longer carry sediment and begins to deposit it. This typically occurs in areas where the coastline changes direction or where the wave approach angle is less steep. Over time, this can lead to the formation of features such as beaches, spits, and bars.

In addition, the angle of wave approach can also influence the formation of coastal landforms such as cliffs and headlands. Waves approaching at a steep angle tend to concentrate their energy on a small area of the coast, leading to intense erosion and the formation of cliffs. Conversely, waves approaching at a less steep angle spread their energy over a larger area, resulting in less intense erosion and the formation of more gently sloping landforms such as beaches.

In conclusion, the angle of wave approach is a key factor in coastal shaping, influencing the patterns of erosion and deposition along the coast and the formation of various coastal landforms.